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Julien Duport - Cote de Brouilly "lieu-dit Brouilly" 2020 (750ml)

Price: $29.99

Producer Julien Duport
Country France
Region Burgundy
Varietal Gamay
Vintage 2020
Sku 66731
Size 750ml

Julien Duport Description

The production is a mere 417 cases!

Although his parents never made wine, Julien Duport's uncle, grandfather, and great-grandfather all did, and Julien knew from age four that he was destined to become a vigneron. Just as he finished his schooling in 2003, the local bulk grape market collapsed, so Julien took over the farming of his family parcels, most of which are old bush vines planted en gobelet, planted in 1885, and some of which are still pre-phylloxera vines on the original plantings from 1885, and some of which are still pre-phylloxera vines on the original French rootstock. (PIED FRANC ALERT! aka Self-Rooted)

After two decades of honing his craft, Julien now has a total of 6.5 hectares under production and has returned to many of the old methods of his grandfather: plowing by horse and hand plow, fermenting in cement tanks using only native wild yeasts and without SO2, doing a long élévage in neutral barrels and large foudres, and then botting without any filtration or fining. In a word, everything we've learned to look for in Beaujolais, but stylistically they are focused less on the taste of partial carbonic maceration as most are today (which, don't get me wrong, can still be delicious!) but more on a historical-throwback style to when Beaujolais growers sold their wine in barrels (because when has 750mls of Brouilly ever been enough?) Duport makes beauties that taste like what you'd imagine from a rich and generous vintage like 1959 - Serious Beaujolais that you can now drink with steak or stash in the cellar.

If not concentrated, elegant, memorable Brouilly, made from horse-plowed pre-Phylloxera Gamay from the fin-de-siècle, then what in the world of wine do we have to get excited about? -Lyle Railsback

I am EXCITED and you should be too.

 

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