Maugeri - Etna Bianco Superiore "Contrada Volpare" 2023 (750ml)

Mount Etna, the volcano that dominates the north-eastern corner of the island of Sicily, has become famous for red wine since 2000 or so, and with good reason; the red wines produced on the northern and southern faces of the mountain are among the best in Italy. I think that the white wines grown on the east face of Etna, around the town of Milo, are at least as interesting, mineral and deep and very ageable.  (The denomination Etna Bianco Superiore is only given to grapes grown around Milo.)

The Maugeri estate is a relative newcomer, but the wines made here with the guidance of enologist Emiliano Falsini are excellent; they show the distinctive stamp of this appellation very clearly, with neither flaws nor flashy winemaking to get in the way. Mount Etna is one of the best white wine terroirs in Italy, and Maugeri is a perfect example of it. Made entirely of Carricante grapes grown in sandy decomposed lava soil near Milo, on the east side of Mount Etna. 

Tasting Note: very pale yellow in the glass; aroma and flavor of wet stones, with hints of mixed Mediterranean herbs and citrus peel;  bright acidity in the mouth, palate-staining concentration, lovely minerally white wine. Very reminiscent of Chablis. Estate bottled.

Made in stainless steel only, the Maugeri 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Volpare comes from four hectares at 700 meters in elevation with volcano soils and elevated organic matter. The estate is located in Milo on the eastern side of the volcano facing the Ionian Sea and gets more average annual rainfall and the mitigating effects of a marine climate. As far as southern Italian white wines go, this shows an extremely tight and mineral-driven personality. There is a hint of soft fruit that comes across as white peach and quince, but the wine will be remembered for its tension and focus. This white shines forth from what was a difficult vintage.

Production is 2,000 bottles.

The 2023 Etna Rosato Contrada Volpare is decidedly spicy and savory with a tinge of nectarine and citrus wafting up from the glass. It displays soft textures and ripe orchard fruits that soothe the senses as hints of candied lemon add liveliness toward the close. This finishes fresh and clean, leaving nuances of apricot to linger on.