Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe - Châteauneuf-du-Pape "La Crau" 2023 (750ml)
Price: $104.99
| Producer | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe |
| Country | France |
| Region | Rhône Valley |
| Varietal | Rhone Blend |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Sku | 204279 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Description
One cannot think of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the most celebrated cru of the southern Rhône, without thinking of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having been rooted to the enigmatic plateau known as La Crau for over one hundred years. The wines of Vieux Télégraphe evoke the concept of terroir in its purest form: they reflect their dramatic climate, the rough terrain that defines the soil, their full sun exposure at a higher altitude, the typicity of the varietals with an emphasis on Grenache, and of course, the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s grandest cru.
The Bruniers’ story begins in 1898 with Hippolyte Brunier. A modest farmer who lived off the land, Hippolyte kept less than a hectare of vines to make his own wines. His small vineyard was at one of the highest points in between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bédarrides, a stony plateau called La Crau. The elevation of this terrain had prompted the construction of a communication tower in the late 18th century to transmit telegraph messages between Marseille and Paris. Otherwise, the allure of this barren landscape is not immediately discernable—there is nothing but galets roulés, or rounded stones, as far as the eye can see. Up so high, the vineyards are exposed to all kinds of elements—rain, hail, scorching sunshine, and especially the unruly Mistral. This was unwelcome terrain where only the toughest vigneron dare plant, although the notorious Mistral works wonderfully to prevent rot.
After years of closer study, La Crau proved to be a privileged vineyard site. At the extreme southeast of the appellation, a large three-meter trench in the vineyard reveals its stratifications, millions of years in the making. The layers show early alluvial deposits, limestone, silica, and a robust red clay (known as molasse) that has come to characterize this terrain. Sitting on the surface of the soil, the galets hold important functions: they insulate the vines from both the cold and the heat, and they provide ideal drainage for the roots.
Vinous: 92 Points
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is delightful, offering a fresh and fragrant bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, accented by a hint of green apple. The 2023 delivers ample energy on the medium- to full-bodied palate and exits with a refined finish.
As with the red, Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau in the 2022 vintage due to the devastating August hailstorms.
