Domaine Ogereau - Savennières "Clos le Grand Beaupréau" 2022 (750ml)
Price: $64.99
| Producer | Domaine Ogereau |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire Valley |
| Varietal | Chenin Blanc |
| Vintage | 2022 |
| Sku | 205196 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Domaine Ogereau Description
Because Carine Sérol tells us we should, we meet with Emmanuel Ogereau a year ago. It is the least awkward meeting ever. He is a river of smiles and uses laughter in lieu of punctuation.
Emmanuel is not yet thirty years old, with only two vintages under his belt. He is a wine nerd (this is not a given) and despite his youth, his aesthetic vision is perfectly formed. Confidence is tempered by humility; respect for the accomplishments of his parents is gladly paid. We meet them as well. Catherine and Vincent are warm and welcoming. Vincent is one of the best classic winemakers in Anjou. He is known especially for his sweet wines and his reds. But he knows where he stands: Anjou is evolving. His son’s ideas are welcome and embraced.
We visit the vines with Emmanuel. They are soon to be certified organic. Between terroirs, we recite our favorite Chenins. The braggadocio of young male winemakers can be grating but Emmanuel offers none. He praises freely and when he critiques it is in the manner of an analytical fan, like a musician discusses the performances of other players he admires. (Father and son play the tuba.) We ask about Thibaud Boudignon, who has made quite a splash; we love his wines. Emmanuel agrees. And he finds him inspiring. Especially since Thibaud, like Emmanuel, makes wine in Anjou Noir.
Savennières, a relatively small appellation of only 150 hectares, is made up of three hillsides on the right bank of the Loire, plunging into the river. The Ogereau family began farming the magnificent Clos le Grand Beaupréau in 2002, giving them the opportunity to farm on both sides of the Loire River.
"Clos Le Grand Beaupréau" is located at the top of Epiré hill, the well-ventilated, highest point in Savennières, just below the Moulin de Beaupréau, southwest-facing, early-ripening. The topsoil (30 to 50 cm) is composed of windblown aeolian sands, covering a subsoil of brittle schists that allow for deep rooting.
Vinous: 93 Points
Of the 12 hectares in Clos le Grand Beaupréau, the Ogereau family has two hectares spread over two parcels. The 2022 Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau is a blend of the two parcels, vinified and aged separately before blending.
The result is a floral, flinty (reductive), finely poised style with well-judged large-format oak and pastry-derived lees character. There's a silken, rounded character, and yet it has bright acid freshness and a sinewy texture, keeping the mouth watering. A citrus line persists through the finish, giving a spicy bite that's all malic acid (the malolactic fermentation didn't happen in 2022). This is a highly concentrated wine, pointing to low yields, and it has energy and power coursing through its core. This is a wine that will grow on you in the glass. But first, let it have some time in bottle, or if you can't wait, get a decanter out.
Wine Advocate: 92 Points
Based on the eponym lieu-dit at the top of the hill of the commune of Épiré, the 2022 Clos le Grand Beaupréau reveals a complex, dense but slightly shy bouquet with aromas of herbs, lemon oil, spices and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, the fleshy, textural palate is animated by bright acids and a flinty finish. This is a fresh, vibrant effort.
