Domaine Lignier Hubert - Grand Cru Clos de la Roche 'MCMLV' 2020 (1.5L)
Price: $2999.99
| Producer | Domaine Lignier Hubert |
| Country | France |
| Region | Burgundy |
| Varietal | Pinot Noir |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 67081 |
| Size | 1.5L |
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Domaine Lignier Hubert Description
The Domaine Hubert Lignier has long had a reputation for its fine wines known for their concentration, depth and structure. At the time the domaine was first imported in 1978, Hubert Lignier was bottling small amounts of two different cuvées of Morey St. Denis (the village bottling and the 1er Cru “Vieilles Vignes”) as well as the fabled Clos de la Roche. Hubert’s son, Laurent, is the next generation of this proud estate and is following his father’s traditional practices to ensure the treasures coming from the family’s impressive vineyard holdings continue to exhibit the best of their respective appellations.
The domaine owns 8.30 hectares principally in the villages of Morey Saint Denis (where their home and the cellars are located), Gevrey Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny. Recently, the Ligniers have expanded their holdings to include parcels in the appellations of Nuits Saint Georges and Pommard. The Ligniers follow the principles of “lutte raisonnée” (sensible combat) in their viticulture.
For the first time in 2017, Laurent Lignier produced a separate cuvée of Clos de la Roche in honor of his grandfather Henri. The Clos de la Roche “MCMLV” comes entirely from Henri’s first planting in 1955: 27 rows of Pinot Noir in the Monts Luisants climat, which he used to propagate the rest of his holdings during the 1960s. This original parcel is highly susceptible to millerandage, which results in small berries of immense concentration, and Laurent harnessed the full power and intensity of such fruit in this stupendous bottling—of which he produced a mere two barrels. A wine such as this embodies Burgundy’s most profound essence: the continuous spirit and presence of a family whose members’ very hands have worked these same vines, this same parcel, since the vines were planted. How could Henri Lignier, when he was breaking earth in 1955, have ever imagined the course his home region would take over the ensuing decades, or the global acclaim that would be heaped on his son’s and his grandsons’ wines? Yet, despite the incredible changes those ensuing 65 years have witnessed, a Lignier has steadfastly worked each vine among these 27 rows of Clos de la Roche, vintage after vintage, gradually building its reputation as one of red Burgundy’s pinnacles. “MCMLV” is not just a great wine, then; it is an emblem of all that makes Burgundy special.
* Noted on the back label as "Hommage à Grand Père Henri Lignier"; from a 0.29 ha parcel on the far southern border of Monts Luisants that was bought in 1944 but not planted until 1955, hence the Roman numeral designation; from yields of only 17 hl/ha in 2020, or about two barrels
Vinous: 96-98 Points
The 2020 Clos-de-la-Roche "Cuvée MCMLV" Grand Cru contains 30% whole bunch and 50% new oak that undergoes a long toasting. My sample was a combination of the two barrels. It has quite a precocious bouquet with a mixture of red and blue fruit laced with graphite and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, enthralling depth with a touch of white pepper towards the finish that fans out like there is no tomorrow. There is a tangible difference between the two cuvées this year. Magnificent.
Wine Advocate: 95-97 Points
The old-vine 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée MCMLV mingles aromas of cassis and wild berries with hints of licorice, black truffle, loamy soil and toasty new oak. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and vibrant. It's more intense and finer-boned than the ampler, richer regular bottling. Both, however, are playing at a very high level.
Burghound: 93-96 Points
A cooler nose reticently offers up its array of dark berries, spice and plenty of floral characters. The palate impression of the equally sized big-bodied flavors brim with an even more copious level of dry extract that confers a highly seductive mouthfeel to the intensely mineral-driven flavors that really firm up on the superbly long, balanced and stylish finale. This is terrific and while it should also age effortlessly over the next 20 years, it will very likely be approachable after only 7 to 8. If you can find this beauty, don't hesitate.
