Bartolo Mascarello - Barolo 2020 (750ml)
Price: $299.99
| Producer | Bartolo Mascarello |
| Country | Italy |
| Region | Piedmont |
| Varietal | Nebbiolo |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 201140 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Bartolo Mascarello Description
The Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of the legendary and historic producers of the Barolo appellation. The winery has stood as a beacon of staunch Barolo traditionalism since its official inception in 1918.
The roots of the estate go back further, to the 19th century when the Mascarello family produced grapes which they sold to large wine producing houses in the nearby township of Bra. At around the turn of the century, though, a dozen or so producers including Bartolomeo Mascarello – Bartolo’s grandfather - established a much smaller entity, called the ‘Barolo Co-operative Winery’, and Bartolomeo became the cellar master there. Eventually, the Co-Operative closed, and Bartolo’s father, Giulio, just back from fighting in World War I, decided to take the plunge and produce some wine under his own label, a true rarity for that era. Although some of the wine was sold as actual bottles, much of the production was sold in demi-johns to restaurants and other consumers who undertook the bottling of the wine on their own. Over time, the estate acquired small parcels of choice vineyards in the communes of Barolo and La Morra. The winery was later passed onto Giulio’s son, Bartolo, in the 1960’s where they worked in tandem until Giulio’s death in 1981. Over that period, the winery began to gain more prominence. When Bartolo died in 2005, the baton was passed then to his only child, Maria Teresa.
For many Barolo collectors, the Cantina Bartolo Mascarello has a special place in their hearts because of its fully independent spirit and unwavering dedication to the traditions and practices of a bygone era in Barolo. When Barolo producers began producing ‘Single-Cru’ wines in the 60’s and 70’s, Bartolo refused to follow suit claiming staunchly that his blended wine, made from their four vineyards in Barolo and La Morra, made a better wine combined than as single-vineyard expressions. To this day, this same philosophy and practice remains firmly in place. And when Barrique-aged Barolo became popular in the late 80’s and 90’s, Bartolo was quick to decry his opposition (as well as to Italy’s extremely popular though corrupt leader, Silvio Berlusconi) by designing a now infamous hand-written label with the words, “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” emblazoned across the front. These labels, as well as others that Bartolo had designed, were often randomly slipped into cases with their regular labeled bottles, much like the golden tickets in Willy Wonka, and are prized possessions for the die-hard Bartolo fan!
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
The wine reveals a soft side, with supple tannins, dark cherry fruit, dried herb, tea leaf and a hint of wild mint. The bouquet is open and does not hold back, especially in terms of its fruit-forward appeal. It feels linear and sharp on the palate, with balanced acidity that keeps it bright.
This wine is on the market now. The Bartolo Mascarello 2020 Barolo represents a blend of fruit from five sites for the first time, Maria Teresa Mascarello tells me excitedly. The classic blend of the recent past saw fruit from Rue and Cannubi in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. San Lorenzo, if only with fruit from a mere 3,000 square meters of seven-year-old vines, returns to the blend with this vintage. The wine also has fruit from Monrobio di Bussia from 4,000 square meters of leased vineyards. (Monrobio di Bussia took the place of San Lorenzo from the 2015 to the 2019 vintages). The Rue vineyard measures 4,000 square meters and has 35-year-old plants. Rocche dell’Annunziata measures 1.3 hectares, and its vines range from 35 to 40 years old. The oldest vines in Cannubi reach 70 years in age, but replanting over the years has introduced 15-, 20- and 25-year-old plants. The site measures one hectare and makes up about one-third of this wine (with fruit sourced from across a total of 3.3 hectares). Rocche dell’Annunziata also makes up one-third of the blend.
Fermentation times were long in 2020, lasting 55 days, with 42 days of submerged cap. This process allows the aromas and flavors to develop slowly and with added nuance. The vintage is considered hot; however, 2020 saw a "different kind of heat," Maria Teresa Mascarello tells me. Much-needed water reserves remained intact from winter and spring that saw snow and rain. "There was more disease pressure in 2020, but it wasn't too bad; and the wines show full-bodied ripeness," she says. This vintage was bottled in summer 2024.
Vinous: 94 Points
The 2020 Barolo is classy, elegant and polished, just as it was last year. Crushed flowers, sage, citrus mint, spice, cedar and pipe tobacco give this ethereal, nuanced Barolo notable aromatic presence. All the elements are very nicely balanced. This is an especially ethereal Barolo from Maria Teresa Mascarello. Nervy tannins lend verve throughout. It will be interesting to see how this ages.
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