Salicutti - Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (750ml)
Price: $139.99
| Producer | Salicutti |
| Country | Italy |
| Region | Tuscany |
| Varietal | Sangiovese Grosso |
| Vintage | 2019 |
| Sku | 206947 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Salicutti Description
"....the Holy Grail of Sangiovese purity...” —Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Salicutti is an outstanding small wine estate on a ridge just south-east of the town of Montalcino, past the historic Biondi-Santi estate. The property was bought by Francesco Leanza in 1990, and was planted to Sangiovese by him in 1994. In 2015 Francesco sold to the Eichbauer family, who are Michelin-starred restaurateurs from Munich, and who had been keen customers of the winery. The relatively high elevation of the three vineyards around the cellar (on average they are 450 meters, or 1,500 feet, above sea level) gives the wine particular finesse and energy; production is very limited, not more than 15,000 bottles per year, depending on the harvest. Leanza was one of the early organic producers in Montalcino, and the Eichbauers have gone further, transitioning the vineyards to biodynamic agriculture. Winemaking is essentially traditional, native yeast fermentations with long macerations (over 30 days, typically) followed by extended aging in beautiful barrels made in the Alto Adige by Mittelberger. There are some modern techniques used to attain a traditional goal as well, such as the use of an excellent modern sorting table. The Eichbauers have continued the elegant, restrained style set by Francesco, and have even moved to aging entirely in larger barrels; Francesco used to start the wines in puncheons.
Tasting Note: Classic Salicutti notes of red fruits, including wild strawberry and red-currant; angelica; hints of cedar and sandalwood; on the palate, fine, elegant, long, almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir in texture but with fresher acidity. These wines will certainly benefit from aging in the bottle but they are surprisingly drinkable when young, too.
Wine Advocate: 95 Points
Showing a lifted note of cherry cough drop or vapor rub, the Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino starts on a high note but then slides smoothly into aromas of purple fruit and wild blackcurrant. Those initial balsamic notes transition to leafy forest, bramble and underbrush that give this wine a very pure, almost botanical personality. Earthy and floral elements also appear, with a hint of sweet lilac, over a mid-weight mouthfeel with bright acidity and fine tannins. The wine flirts with ripeness but ultimately maintains a place of restrained elegance and near under-ripeness that bodes well for its future evolution. Fermentation in cement lasts up to 30 days, and the wine sees 40 months in oak casks. I have not seen a straight village bottling from Salicutti in a number of years, and this is a welcome addition.
Vinous: 93 Points
The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy to the core, with a whiff of savory herbs and animal musk that blows off to reveal depths of dried black cherries and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic, nearly juicy in personality, with tart wild berry fruits that are enlivened by vibrant acidity as violet inner florals form toward the close. It finishes structured and long, yet its tannins are crunchy and sweet. The 2019 leaves traces of licorice and exotic spice to fade gradually. As youthful as this is, it's almost impossible to put down. Salicutti has made a solid come-back in recent vintages.
