Enderle & Moll - Liaison Pinot Noir 2020 (750ml)
Price: $39.99
| Producer | Enderle & Moll |
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Baden |
| Varietal | Pinot Noir |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 61995 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Enderle & Moll Description
In Germany many insiders consider Enderle & Moll the country’s single greatest producer of Pinot Noir. That’s a wild claim to be sure, but then you taste the wines and you think to yourself, “…yeah, alright, well maybe…”
What you can say with certainty is that Florian Moll, along with his partner Géraldine, Manfred Enderle and Frenchman Maxence Lecat, fly in the face of just about every conventional estate in Baden.
From the beginning, the focus here was not on ripeness, but on the age and quality of the vineyard. They work with very old vines. In fact their vines are among the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden. They farm all the vineyards organically and biodynamically. Absolutely everything is done by hand in the vineyards and in the cellar. They were among the first to actually request used barrels, seeking a more delicate élevage. Although every winery in Germany now claims to somehow have a DRC barrel or two, Enderle & Moll were among the first to realize that the provenance of the barrels mattered, a lot, and they began, famously, with used Dujac barrels, though of course now they source barrels from around Burgundy. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The Pinot Noirs are famously light, bright, energetic, detailed, ethereal, satiny, even if they can be broad-shouldered and powerful in a sneaky sort of way. Thus the mystery, the beauty and yes, all the damn fuss. At this point it’s said so often it’s beyond trite, but here we go: If you appreciate Burgundy these wines are worth checking out. Not because they taste like Burgundy, they don’t, but because they share a similar aesthetic of lightness matched to intensity, filtered through soil.
The “Liaison,” a sort of middle-wine-premier-cru-style, is a blend from younger vines in the Grand Cru sites. “Young,” it should be said, at around 45 years of age, which the French will often call “vieilles vignes.”
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