Domaine Marcel Deiss - Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2020 (750ml)
Price: $119.99
| Producer | Domaine Marcel Deiss |
| Country | France |
| Region | Alsace |
| Varietal | Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, Muscat, Muscat Blanc à Petit |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 206078 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Domaine Marcel Deiss Description
No one will argue that Deiss is among the top two or three domaines of Alsace. As to the rest, Jean-Michel Deiss is what the French call, a fouteur de merde, a shit-stirrer. After an old man on his deathbed entrusted him with one of Alsace's gems, the Schoenenbourg vineyard, Jean-Michel found that it was planted to an old field blend or “co-plantation.” He soon realized that this was the missing link in his quest for great wine and he replanted every single one of his top vineyards to such blends. Though this had once been the norm in Alsace, by the time Jean-Michel planted his grand crus to field blends, it was a technique reserved to lowly wines. Then, he took on the Alsatian cru system. Too many grand crus, and too large at that, but no premier crus was idiotic, he thought, and he self-appointed seven of his top vineyards “premier crus.” When you taste them, it makes crystalline sense, but this is technically an illegal practice and Jean-Michel has been battling the authorities ever since. His latest concern is to have ancient but currently illegal Alsatian varieties added to the list of authorized grapes. A troublemaker indeed, but the wines are absolutely magical.
This magnificent terroir is situated in the heart of a geologic fault with hard Jurassic limestone and Triassic marl. These formations, rich in fossils, have formed a shallow clay-limestone soil that is red (ferrous) and rich in limestone rock, forcing the vine roots to dig deep for nourishment and water. Due to its southern exposure, its distance from the Vosges limit, and its isolation, the microclimate of Altenberg is very warm, dry, and nearly over-exposed. Ripeness levels, often enhanced by noble rot, are exceptional, resulting in a wine whose co-planted varieties are dominated by their terroir.
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
The golden-colored 2020 Grand Cru Altenberg is clear, deep, elegant and cocoa-ish on the lemony-scented nose. Generous but elegant and refined on the palate, this is a full-bodied, complex and finely tannic as well as saline Altenberg with a long, sweet, saline and lemony finish that again shows melting dark chocolate and minty and lemon/orange bitters.
12% stated alcohol.
Vinous: 93 Points
The 2020 Altenberg Grand Cru is a field blend of Alsatian white varieties grown on a mix of south-facing limestone and clay. The nose is floral, think rose and honeysuckle, with hints of elderflower. The palate comes in with the sweetness of peach compote, edged with sharp lemon in a seductive combination that makes the mouth water. Underneath all the fruit, there is stony coolness. Peach skin, almond and lemon nuances suggest this will blossom with age. The finish is stony and sweet; wait for this. (Sweet)
