Domaine Marcel Deiss - Grand Cru "Altenberg de Bergheim" 2019 (750ml)
Price: $119.99
| Producer | Domaine Marcel Deiss |
| Country | France |
| Region | Alsace |
| Varietal | Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, Muscat, Muscat Blanc à Petit |
| Vintage | 2019 |
| Sku | 207014 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Domaine Marcel Deiss Description
No one will argue that Deiss is among the top two or three domaines of Alsace. As to the rest, Jean-Michel Deiss is what the French call, a fouteur de merde, a shit-stirrer. After an old man on his deathbed entrusted him with one of Alsace's gems, the Schoenenbourg vineyard, Jean-Michel found that it was planted to an old field blend or “co-plantation.” He soon realized that this was the missing link in his quest for great wine and he replanted every single one of his top vineyards to such blends. Though this had once been the norm in Alsace, by the time Jean-Michel planted his grand crus to field blends, it was a technique reserved to lowly wines. Then, he took on the Alsatian cru system. Too many grand crus, and too large at that, but no premier crus was idiotic, he thought, and he self-appointed seven of his top vineyards “premier crus.” When you taste them, it makes crystalline sense, but this is technically an illegal practice and Jean-Michel has been battling the authorities ever since. His latest concern is to have ancient but currently illegal Alsatian varieties added to the list of authorized grapes. A troublemaker indeed, but the wines are absolutely magical.
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
Based on at least 60% Riesling, the 2019 Grand Cru Altenberg is very clear, deep, pure and aromatic on the nose that offers ripe peach and fine botrytis notes with ripe apricot aromas. Sweet and rich yet very fine on the highly elegant and saline finish, this Altenberg is like a gold-capsuled Mosel Auslese yet with more tannins and less sulfur. It is an impressive wine to be served with cheese, for example. Really stimulating from clay and marl soils with decomposed limestone. Immaculate.
Vinous: 91 Points
The 2019 Berckem is named after the Alsatian dialect of Bergheim. All the plots that make it into this golden wine are on the limestone of Bergheim; all are field blends. A tiny portion of this wine had skin maceration. The nose is enticingly powdery and smells of chalk, sun-warmed rock, concentrated citrus zest flavors, then later of apricot. The palate has a lovely bitter edge that lends a mouthfeel reminiscent of dark fir honey; underneath, peach compote has tropical mango highlights. This is dry and comes with laser freshness. Total drive - the 16g/L of residual sweetness is a complete surprise as the finish is so balanced.
(Off-dry)
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